View By Date

Tags

Statistics

  • 364
    Blogs
  • 44
    Active Bloggers
15 blogs
  • 26 May 2015
    “The Peep Eliminator” Melvin Dein contacted me and asked me if I would be willing to give a product that will enable rifle like accuracy to a bow a shot, I immediately said “absolutely”!!   He is the main man and super guy behind the Peep Eliminator a great device to achieve quicker target acquisition, shoot earlier and later and be able to shoot 1 pin out to 30-40 yards depending on your particular set up.  I received the Peep Eliminator in short order and I couldn’t wait to get it put on and see how it works.  Anything to make the shot more accurate, in low light and shoot further without using a different pin; Well, this product answers that call!  It is simple to set up, follow the directions and it will be ready to shoot in a matter of minutes! Once you get it on the bow, let the fun begin! They come in 4 different configurations:  Single Green Dot, Extender Green dot (has an adjustable slide bar) Dominate eye sight and a verifier in 2x or 4x magnification. Those of you, who carry the bow in the field or on those remote hunts, will be interested to know that they are very light weight, ranging from a mere 1.6 ounces to 8.7 ounces.  The decision is yours to make on which one you want, but if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to call Melvin, he is fantastic and will be able to help you decide in a quick minute.  One final great feature they have available is a sight light for those magical first or last 10-15 minutes of the hunting day.     I currently shoot a Mathews Z7, and a Vital Bow Gear Star Trac single pin sight. Mounting it was super easy,  the aperture lined up well with my VBG, the only thing I really had to do was adjust my sight out just a little bit to accommodate the thickness of the mounting plate on the Peep Eliminator.  The graduation marks on both axis of the sight is wonderful, easy to read and makes it easy to mark exactly where your 20 yard starting point is.  You do not have to do this, but I find it a useful reference point if I ever have to remove a sight component for whatever reason.  Shooting the new sight is definitely different, especially when you have shot for 20 plus years with just a peep sight.  I did notice that if forces you to keep the same anchor point, and will tell on you if you torque the bow one way or the other, because you will lose your front pin.  But after 5-10 shots, I did notice that my groups were tighter and that the consistency is there as well.   Overall, Shooting with the Peep Eliminator is quite the experience, for some shooters it may not be for you, but it will be a definite advantage in low light and when those sneaky bucks show up at the beginning or end of the day, this will allow you to make that shot confidently!  I personally think target shooters will benefit tremendously from it ensuring that the bow is completely level which will in turn increase your accuracy!   I would recommend this product to anyone who wants to improve accuracy, shoot earlier and later and eliminate the peep sight from your string! If you have any questions; or even need help setting it up give Melvin Deien at Peep Eliminator a call at 618-526-4427 or visit www.peepelminator.com to place an order.  Melvin is always there to answer any questions you have, and you will be hard pressed to find a better customer service representative than the founder and inventor or this amazing sight!
    1867 Posted by Scott Stover
  • “The Peep Eliminator” Melvin Dein contacted me and asked me if I would be willing to give a product that will enable rifle like accuracy to a bow a shot, I immediately said “absolutely”!!   He is the main man and super guy behind the Peep Eliminator a great device to achieve quicker target acquisition, shoot earlier and later and be able to shoot 1 pin out to 30-40 yards depending on your particular set up.  I received the Peep Eliminator in short order and I couldn’t wait to get it put on and see how it works.  Anything to make the shot more accurate, in low light and shoot further without using a different pin; Well, this product answers that call!  It is simple to set up, follow the directions and it will be ready to shoot in a matter of minutes! Once you get it on the bow, let the fun begin! They come in 4 different configurations:  Single Green Dot, Extender Green dot (has an adjustable slide bar) Dominate eye sight and a verifier in 2x or 4x magnification. Those of you, who carry the bow in the field or on those remote hunts, will be interested to know that they are very light weight, ranging from a mere 1.6 ounces to 8.7 ounces.  The decision is yours to make on which one you want, but if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to call Melvin, he is fantastic and will be able to help you decide in a quick minute.  One final great feature they have available is a sight light for those magical first or last 10-15 minutes of the hunting day.     I currently shoot a Mathews Z7, and a Vital Bow Gear Star Trac single pin sight. Mounting it was super easy,  the aperture lined up well with my VBG, the only thing I really had to do was adjust my sight out just a little bit to accommodate the thickness of the mounting plate on the Peep Eliminator.  The graduation marks on both axis of the sight is wonderful, easy to read and makes it easy to mark exactly where your 20 yard starting point is.  You do not have to do this, but I find it a useful reference point if I ever have to remove a sight component for whatever reason.  Shooting the new sight is definitely different, especially when you have shot for 20 plus years with just a peep sight.  I did notice that if forces you to keep the same anchor point, and will tell on you if you torque the bow one way or the other, because you will lose your front pin.  But after 5-10 shots, I did notice that my groups were tighter and that the consistency is there as well.   Overall, Shooting with the Peep Eliminator is quite the experience, for some shooters it may not be for you, but it will be a definite advantage in low light and when those sneaky bucks show up at the beginning or end of the day, this will allow you to make that shot confidently!  I personally think target shooters will benefit tremendously from it ensuring that the bow is completely level which will in turn increase your accuracy!   I would recommend this product to anyone who wants to improve accuracy, shoot earlier and later and eliminate the peep sight from your string! If you have any questions; or even need help setting it up give Melvin Deien at Peep Eliminator a call at 618-526-4427 or visit www.peepelminator.com to place an order.  Melvin is always there to answer any questions you have, and you will be hard pressed to find a better customer service representative than the founder and inventor or this amazing sight!
    May 26, 2015 1867
  • 22 Apr 2015
    “The Slick Shot Bow Torque Eliminator” When Mark Pouliot contacted me and asked me if I would like to try a new product to eliminate bow torque and improve form I instantly said an emphatic “Heck Yes!”.  He is the main man and super guy behind the Slick Shot, a simple but super effective way to eliminate bow torque during a shot.  I received the Slick Shot quickly and I couldn’t wait to get my hands on it, anything to make your shot more accurate and eliminate torque right? Well, this product is just what the doctor ordered, simple to set up, super comfortable and it does exactly what it says it does, it will not allow you to torque the bow at all, and if you do have a “torque” problem it instantly corrects it back to where your grip should be.  They come in 3 sizes: Small, Medium and Large. Measurements are simple because you want to be sure you have the correct size.  You measure from the palm of your bow hand from the base of the thumb (with the hand relaxed) to the base of the middle finger; If the measurement is 2-2 ½” Medium, Greater than 2 ½” Large, and if it is less than 2” order the small.  They have adjustable elastic straps that will snug them up on your fingers and they also make ones with neoprene straps to fit over gloves, so they can be used not only during target shooting but hunting applications as well.  When I put it on for the first time, it is a different feeling for sure, some people may find it distracting or bulky, but give it just a few minutes on your hand an you can tell that this is a quality product designed to do exactly what it says it does.  I currently shoot a Mathews Z7, and the grip on that bow is very well designed, but every bow manufacturer is different so the first time you pick your bow up with the Slick Shot will be quite different, so don’t worry if it feels “different”, give it a fair chance and then go from there.  Shooting with the Slick Shot is quite the experience, for some more advanced archers it may not be noticeable if you already have good form, but where this product will help the most is with newer shooters. I personally think target shooters will benefit tremendously from it ensuring that the bow is completely level which will in turn increase your accuracy! I shot several arrows with and without the Slick Shot and I can tell you from experience that it does exactly what it claims to do, and that is close your groups up, allow you to shoot with more confidence and eliminate bow torque! Overall, I would recommend this product to anyone who wants to improve accuracy, form and overall shooting! Please give Mark at Slick Shot Archery a call at 802-453-4115 or visit www.slickshotarchery.com to place an order.  They have new colors and Mark is a first rate guy to deal with and a perfect product to improve your shooting!!
    3168 Posted by Scott Stover
  • “The Slick Shot Bow Torque Eliminator” When Mark Pouliot contacted me and asked me if I would like to try a new product to eliminate bow torque and improve form I instantly said an emphatic “Heck Yes!”.  He is the main man and super guy behind the Slick Shot, a simple but super effective way to eliminate bow torque during a shot.  I received the Slick Shot quickly and I couldn’t wait to get my hands on it, anything to make your shot more accurate and eliminate torque right? Well, this product is just what the doctor ordered, simple to set up, super comfortable and it does exactly what it says it does, it will not allow you to torque the bow at all, and if you do have a “torque” problem it instantly corrects it back to where your grip should be.  They come in 3 sizes: Small, Medium and Large. Measurements are simple because you want to be sure you have the correct size.  You measure from the palm of your bow hand from the base of the thumb (with the hand relaxed) to the base of the middle finger; If the measurement is 2-2 ½” Medium, Greater than 2 ½” Large, and if it is less than 2” order the small.  They have adjustable elastic straps that will snug them up on your fingers and they also make ones with neoprene straps to fit over gloves, so they can be used not only during target shooting but hunting applications as well.  When I put it on for the first time, it is a different feeling for sure, some people may find it distracting or bulky, but give it just a few minutes on your hand an you can tell that this is a quality product designed to do exactly what it says it does.  I currently shoot a Mathews Z7, and the grip on that bow is very well designed, but every bow manufacturer is different so the first time you pick your bow up with the Slick Shot will be quite different, so don’t worry if it feels “different”, give it a fair chance and then go from there.  Shooting with the Slick Shot is quite the experience, for some more advanced archers it may not be noticeable if you already have good form, but where this product will help the most is with newer shooters. I personally think target shooters will benefit tremendously from it ensuring that the bow is completely level which will in turn increase your accuracy! I shot several arrows with and without the Slick Shot and I can tell you from experience that it does exactly what it claims to do, and that is close your groups up, allow you to shoot with more confidence and eliminate bow torque! Overall, I would recommend this product to anyone who wants to improve accuracy, form and overall shooting! Please give Mark at Slick Shot Archery a call at 802-453-4115 or visit www.slickshotarchery.com to place an order.  They have new colors and Mark is a first rate guy to deal with and a perfect product to improve your shooting!!
    Apr 22, 2015 3168
  • 11 Oct 2012
    Bug out bag - We sell all of your product needs for Ammunition, Gun Gear, Shooting Supplies, and Discounted Weapons Accessories.
    997 Posted by ryanabyler
  • Bug out bag - We sell all of your product needs for Ammunition, Gun Gear, Shooting Supplies, and Discounted Weapons Accessories.
    Oct 11, 2012 997
  • 24 May 2012
    A new Mia & the Little Gal post at the WON by Mia Anstine Head over to the Women's Outdoor News and see what the Little Gal and I have been up to. I am so fortunate, and thankful, to give her these opportunities. Mia & the Little Gal: Bow fishing with an Olympian Posted: 23 May 2012 07:01 AM PDT As many of you know, I am doing my best [...] Read more of this post
    2304 Posted by Mia Anstine
  • A new Mia & the Little Gal post at the WON by Mia Anstine Head over to the Women's Outdoor News and see what the Little Gal and I have been up to. I am so fortunate, and thankful, to give her these opportunities. Mia & the Little Gal: Bow fishing with an Olympian Posted: 23 May 2012 07:01 AM PDT As many of you know, I am doing my best [...] Read more of this post
    May 24, 2012 2304
  • 01 May 2012
    For Immediate Release Bob Walker Joins Maximus Crossbows April 17th 2012 The Ford Outdoors Group is pleased to announce the joining of Bob Walker, the originator of the Walkers Game Ear, and the Maximus Crossbows Team.Bob Walker has been an outdoor industry innovator for more than 30 years. “Bob Walker actually created an entire category when he introduced the Walker’s Game Ear some 30 years ago.”After retiring from the Game Ear business, Bob was eager to return to the hunting industry, specifically in the fast growing crossbow industry. Bob began an initiative to start Slayer Crossbows under his S.O.S brand of products.Following the Maximus Crossbow story and launch, it became clear that merging Bob Walkers Slayer Crossbow line into the Maximus Crossbow Brand would benefit both companies.As Maximus continues to gain momentum, the Slayer Brand of crossbows will be focused on the domestically produced “R Series” of crossbows, the next generation of recurve style crossbow. Branding will evolve from the original “R-Series” to the “SlayeR Series” with Bob Walkers endorsement.Bob Walker said “I have been Bowhunting and enjoying the hunting industry for over thirty years. When I learned of the Maximus commitment to re-shore a company, and knowing my desire to participate in the crossbow industry, it was a perfect fit, with perfect timing to join efforts and offer my experience and enthusiasm for growing companies. I really like the team Randy Ford has built and look forward to endorsing the new SlayeR Series of crossbows.”“ We are on a mission to attract the very best people in the industry to our company. Bob Walker brings immeasurable experience and confidence to our Maximus Team. Bob will drive a major portion of our marketing outreach and be a veteran resource for us having already built a great business of his own.” said Paul Vaicunas, Maximus President.About The Ford Outdoors GroupThe Ford Outdoors Group of companies includes Walker Downriggers,Strike Vision Underwater Cameras, Maximus Crossbows , Quigley FordScopes and Slayer Broadheads.Visit www.fordoutdoorsgroup.com for more information
    1036 Posted by Chris Avena
  • For Immediate Release Bob Walker Joins Maximus Crossbows April 17th 2012 The Ford Outdoors Group is pleased to announce the joining of Bob Walker, the originator of the Walkers Game Ear, and the Maximus Crossbows Team.Bob Walker has been an outdoor industry innovator for more than 30 years. “Bob Walker actually created an entire category when he introduced the Walker’s Game Ear some 30 years ago.”After retiring from the Game Ear business, Bob was eager to return to the hunting industry, specifically in the fast growing crossbow industry. Bob began an initiative to start Slayer Crossbows under his S.O.S brand of products.Following the Maximus Crossbow story and launch, it became clear that merging Bob Walkers Slayer Crossbow line into the Maximus Crossbow Brand would benefit both companies.As Maximus continues to gain momentum, the Slayer Brand of crossbows will be focused on the domestically produced “R Series” of crossbows, the next generation of recurve style crossbow. Branding will evolve from the original “R-Series” to the “SlayeR Series” with Bob Walkers endorsement.Bob Walker said “I have been Bowhunting and enjoying the hunting industry for over thirty years. When I learned of the Maximus commitment to re-shore a company, and knowing my desire to participate in the crossbow industry, it was a perfect fit, with perfect timing to join efforts and offer my experience and enthusiasm for growing companies. I really like the team Randy Ford has built and look forward to endorsing the new SlayeR Series of crossbows.”“ We are on a mission to attract the very best people in the industry to our company. Bob Walker brings immeasurable experience and confidence to our Maximus Team. Bob will drive a major portion of our marketing outreach and be a veteran resource for us having already built a great business of his own.” said Paul Vaicunas, Maximus President.About The Ford Outdoors GroupThe Ford Outdoors Group of companies includes Walker Downriggers,Strike Vision Underwater Cameras, Maximus Crossbows , Quigley FordScopes and Slayer Broadheads.Visit www.fordoutdoorsgroup.com for more information
    May 01, 2012 1036
  • 10 Mar 2012
    Arrow Puller from TenPoint Crossbow Technologies® by Mia Anstine The Little Gal was fortunate enough to receive a compound bow for Christmas. We practice shooting three to four times a week and she is really getting pretty good. If any of you have spent any time shooting targets with a compound or crossbow, you probably know it can sometimes be hard to pull your arrow [...] Read more of this post
    6938 Posted by Mia Anstine
  • Arrow Puller from TenPoint Crossbow Technologies® by Mia Anstine The Little Gal was fortunate enough to receive a compound bow for Christmas. We practice shooting three to four times a week and she is really getting pretty good. If any of you have spent any time shooting targets with a compound or crossbow, you probably know it can sometimes be hard to pull your arrow [...] Read more of this post
    Mar 10, 2012 6938
  • 27 Oct 2011
    Beating Bucks With Offbeat Tactics 10/11/2011 Some bowhunters travel far and wide in search of big bucks. Johnny Webber hunts at   home—with spectacular results. by Richard Combs What bowhunter can fail to be impressed by a guy who consistently bags trophy whitetails? Nothing impresses me more than local hunters who score regularly near home, especially when home is not a nationally known hotspot for big bucks. Don’t get me wrong; you can’t take big bucks where there are none. The deer hunting is very good within the 40-mile radius of Johnny Webber’s southeastern Indiana home, but local harvest rates and success ratios haven’t reached the kind of numbers that bring trophy hunters to the area from far and wide. Webber has ventured outside that area to hunt whitetails on only a few occasions, and every one of the 14 trophies he has taken with his bow has come from inside that 40-mile radius. Webber has mastered the fundamentals and exercises a great deal of discipline applying them. At the same time, he has developed his own style of hunting that occasionally entails employing highly unorthodox tactics. The Sweat First, there’s the knowledge. Webber eats, drinks, and breathes deer hunting. He studies whitetails and is fascinated with their behavior. He once obtained a state permit and purchased a whitetail buck, which he kept in a penned area on his property, observing it for more than a year. He can bore a wildlife biologist to tears with his detailed knowledge of the natural history of whitetails, their habits, their preferences, their behavior. He scouts like a madman, year-round, constantly seeking information about the whereabouts of good bucks and property on which to hunt them. He concentrates on the late summer, when even big bucks in velvet can often be seen in crop fields or meadows during the late afternoon and evening hours. He knows when the deer will favor alfalfa, when they’ll go for soybeans, and when they’ll abandon the soybeans for white oak acorns. He does whatever it takes to gain access to prime hunting land, often doing favors for landowners, bartering his services as a guide, or leasing properties to hunt. Whenever possible, he puts in food plots. He studies sign, and can usually distinguish the tracks, and often the rubs, of individual bucks that interest him. By the time the season opens, Webber has normally identified half a dozen or so bucks he wants to go after come opening day. He has a good idea, if not certain knowledge, of where they bed and where they feed, and how they move between bedding and feeding areas. He hangs his stands early. “I never hang a stand in an area just because it looks good,” he once confided. “When I hang a stand somewhere, it’s because I have good reason to believe, from direct observations or from sign, that a buck I want is in that area and travels by that stand on occasion.” Webber hunts from opening day to the end of Indiana’s season in January, but he focuses his efforts on the first week of bow season and into the rut, concentrating on late October through mid-November. He’ll stay in a tree from first light until dark when the time is right and the conditions are promising. He plays the wind carefully and chooses different stands for early morning or late afternoon. He’s careful about scent control, but his regimen is usually limited to showering with non-scented soap, putting skunk or fox urine on his boots, and occasionally, sparingly using a doe-in-heat scent. The Inspiration Many of Webber’s tactics would appear a little unconventional to most bowhunters, and some would seem downright bizarre to almost all of them. Like getting high, for instance. Many hunters believe in getting at least 15 feet off the ground, but Webber is a great believer in getting much higher than that, often climbing 30 feet or more. He’s comfortable with heights, and he’s convinced that the higher he is, the less likely deer are to see him or catch his scent. At the same time, the higher vantage point often enables him to effectively scout while hunting. More than once he’s spotted a buck in the distance from his lofty vantage point and placed a stand in that area to intercept the buck the next time it came that way. There are some disadvantages to climbing more than 25 feet, including the steep shot angle and increased safety concerns. Webber does it routinely, though, and he practices shooting his bow from an elevated platform in his yard to simulate the shots he expects to get from his stands. Webber observes rub and scrape lines, but he never hunts them, except incidentally. “The doe-to-buck ratio is just too high in this area,” Webber opines. “Bucks don’t need to visit scrapes regularly, at least during daylight hours, because there are so many does that as soon as the bucks start getting active near the rut, there are does going to them.” Instead he checks rubs and scrapes simply to get an indication of how and when big bucks are using an area. Similarly, he rarely uses attractants of any kind, and never rattles, believing these tactics are effective only in areas where doe-to-buck ratios are in good balance. He does grunt call frequently, especially when hunting the rut. If he doesn’t hunt scrapes or rub lines, and doesn’t bring bucks in with scent or by rattling, how does he get within bow range of trophy bucks? Grunting sometimes does the trick, but Webber says he hunts bedding areas or food sources. “Does often bed down in or very close to beans, alfalfa, corn, clover or other food sources. Close to the rut, bucks will stay close to them. I set up in thickets or other likely spots very close to the food sources in the evening during the rut. Mornings, I hunt trails or funnels in thick areas very close to bedding spots. I get there early and try to catch them returning to their beds at first light.”
    13342 Posted by Chris Avena
  • Beating Bucks With Offbeat Tactics 10/11/2011 Some bowhunters travel far and wide in search of big bucks. Johnny Webber hunts at   home—with spectacular results. by Richard Combs What bowhunter can fail to be impressed by a guy who consistently bags trophy whitetails? Nothing impresses me more than local hunters who score regularly near home, especially when home is not a nationally known hotspot for big bucks. Don’t get me wrong; you can’t take big bucks where there are none. The deer hunting is very good within the 40-mile radius of Johnny Webber’s southeastern Indiana home, but local harvest rates and success ratios haven’t reached the kind of numbers that bring trophy hunters to the area from far and wide. Webber has ventured outside that area to hunt whitetails on only a few occasions, and every one of the 14 trophies he has taken with his bow has come from inside that 40-mile radius. Webber has mastered the fundamentals and exercises a great deal of discipline applying them. At the same time, he has developed his own style of hunting that occasionally entails employing highly unorthodox tactics. The Sweat First, there’s the knowledge. Webber eats, drinks, and breathes deer hunting. He studies whitetails and is fascinated with their behavior. He once obtained a state permit and purchased a whitetail buck, which he kept in a penned area on his property, observing it for more than a year. He can bore a wildlife biologist to tears with his detailed knowledge of the natural history of whitetails, their habits, their preferences, their behavior. He scouts like a madman, year-round, constantly seeking information about the whereabouts of good bucks and property on which to hunt them. He concentrates on the late summer, when even big bucks in velvet can often be seen in crop fields or meadows during the late afternoon and evening hours. He knows when the deer will favor alfalfa, when they’ll go for soybeans, and when they’ll abandon the soybeans for white oak acorns. He does whatever it takes to gain access to prime hunting land, often doing favors for landowners, bartering his services as a guide, or leasing properties to hunt. Whenever possible, he puts in food plots. He studies sign, and can usually distinguish the tracks, and often the rubs, of individual bucks that interest him. By the time the season opens, Webber has normally identified half a dozen or so bucks he wants to go after come opening day. He has a good idea, if not certain knowledge, of where they bed and where they feed, and how they move between bedding and feeding areas. He hangs his stands early. “I never hang a stand in an area just because it looks good,” he once confided. “When I hang a stand somewhere, it’s because I have good reason to believe, from direct observations or from sign, that a buck I want is in that area and travels by that stand on occasion.” Webber hunts from opening day to the end of Indiana’s season in January, but he focuses his efforts on the first week of bow season and into the rut, concentrating on late October through mid-November. He’ll stay in a tree from first light until dark when the time is right and the conditions are promising. He plays the wind carefully and chooses different stands for early morning or late afternoon. He’s careful about scent control, but his regimen is usually limited to showering with non-scented soap, putting skunk or fox urine on his boots, and occasionally, sparingly using a doe-in-heat scent. The Inspiration Many of Webber’s tactics would appear a little unconventional to most bowhunters, and some would seem downright bizarre to almost all of them. Like getting high, for instance. Many hunters believe in getting at least 15 feet off the ground, but Webber is a great believer in getting much higher than that, often climbing 30 feet or more. He’s comfortable with heights, and he’s convinced that the higher he is, the less likely deer are to see him or catch his scent. At the same time, the higher vantage point often enables him to effectively scout while hunting. More than once he’s spotted a buck in the distance from his lofty vantage point and placed a stand in that area to intercept the buck the next time it came that way. There are some disadvantages to climbing more than 25 feet, including the steep shot angle and increased safety concerns. Webber does it routinely, though, and he practices shooting his bow from an elevated platform in his yard to simulate the shots he expects to get from his stands. Webber observes rub and scrape lines, but he never hunts them, except incidentally. “The doe-to-buck ratio is just too high in this area,” Webber opines. “Bucks don’t need to visit scrapes regularly, at least during daylight hours, because there are so many does that as soon as the bucks start getting active near the rut, there are does going to them.” Instead he checks rubs and scrapes simply to get an indication of how and when big bucks are using an area. Similarly, he rarely uses attractants of any kind, and never rattles, believing these tactics are effective only in areas where doe-to-buck ratios are in good balance. He does grunt call frequently, especially when hunting the rut. If he doesn’t hunt scrapes or rub lines, and doesn’t bring bucks in with scent or by rattling, how does he get within bow range of trophy bucks? Grunting sometimes does the trick, but Webber says he hunts bedding areas or food sources. “Does often bed down in or very close to beans, alfalfa, corn, clover or other food sources. Close to the rut, bucks will stay close to them. I set up in thickets or other likely spots very close to the food sources in the evening during the rut. Mornings, I hunt trails or funnels in thick areas very close to bedding spots. I get there early and try to catch them returning to their beds at first light.”
    Oct 27, 2011 13342
  • 09 Jun 2011
    New York officials have proposed allowing hunters to use crossbows for big game and eliminating a permit system for some physically disabled hunters to use special archery equipment.   AP—New York officials have proposed allowing hunters to use crossbows for big game and eliminating a permit system for some physically disabled hunters to use special archery equipment. Environmental Commissioner Joe Martens says crossbows are gaining popularity in the state and there's high demand for modified equipment for use by disabled hunters. Crossbows could be used to take deer and bear during regular big game seasons in places where shotguns or muzzleloaders are permitted and during all late muzzleloader seasons. They wouldn't be allowed during early bear or archery seasons or in any archery only wildlife management units. Hunters would have to complete a special training course before being allowed to use them. DEC will be accepting public comments on the proposal through July 11.
    737 Posted by Chris Avena
  • New York officials have proposed allowing hunters to use crossbows for big game and eliminating a permit system for some physically disabled hunters to use special archery equipment.   AP—New York officials have proposed allowing hunters to use crossbows for big game and eliminating a permit system for some physically disabled hunters to use special archery equipment. Environmental Commissioner Joe Martens says crossbows are gaining popularity in the state and there's high demand for modified equipment for use by disabled hunters. Crossbows could be used to take deer and bear during regular big game seasons in places where shotguns or muzzleloaders are permitted and during all late muzzleloader seasons. They wouldn't be allowed during early bear or archery seasons or in any archery only wildlife management units. Hunters would have to complete a special training course before being allowed to use them. DEC will be accepting public comments on the proposal through July 11.
    Jun 09, 2011 737
  • 22 May 2011
    In part 1 I discussed preparation and general archery practice techniques. Now we get into making practice real and succeeding in the moment of truth. by Mike Strandlund, Editor, Bowhunting World Match your practice sessions to actual hunting situations. A big game hunter doesn’t need to shoot quarter-size groups. What he needs to do is shoot groups the size of a vital zone under adverse shooting conditions. During practice sessions, vary your angles, distances, and shooting positions. Too many hunters shoot again and again from the same place in the same way. This gives them an exaggerated impression of their hunting accuracy. A whitetail’s not going to give you a couple of warm-up shots. You must be able to put that first arrow in there from odd angles and unknown distances. The best practice is to set up a course of targets at varying distances and uphill/downhill angles. If you plan to hunt exclusively from treestands, it makes no sense to practice on the same level as your target. Shoot down a steep bank, from the roof of your garage, or, better yet, from an actual treestand. Practice in the clothes you’ll wear hunting. Practice both quick shooting and holding full draw as long as you can. Again, practice as if your first arrow is your only arrow. As well as a realistic setting, you should use realistic targets. Most bowhunters benefit greatly from using lifelike targets of game animals. They help you pick and hit vital zones and practice visualization. An archery club range with a whole zoo of Styrofoam game animals is an ideal place for a bowhunter to practice. You might even set up your own course with treestands, ground blinds, and different types of animals. The next best thing to lifelike targets is a target without a bullseye. This might be a couple of hay bales, a plain straw butt, or my favorite – sand dunes. (I seldom miss.) The worst thing to use is a target with a bullseye. Turn your target around, or paint the front a solid color. Then pick your own imaginary bullseye, as you’ll have to do when shooting at game. While you practice, learn your effective range. Many bowhunters have a rude awakening when they shoot at life-size targets. Try it, to find your realistic shooting range, or else use this rule: If you can keep five of six arrows in a 9-inch circle (6-inch circle from a treestand), you’re within effective deer-shooting range. If not, wait for a closer shot. If you use a compound bow, make yardage calculation a science. For the archer with a bow sight, shooting accuracy is proportional to accuracy in judging range. You can practice range estimation constantly while walking through the woods. Pick out a tree in your path, guess the yardage, and step it off. When you get there, pick out another tree and do it again. Training really can enhance your ability to judge distance. Note that changes in vegetation thickness and elevation will change your depth perception. This method is even better, of course, if you bring your bow along and do some stump-shooting. Some bowhunters believe in electronic rangefinders. It is very difficult to take a reading on an animal that has entered bow range, but you can get the range of an object in the animal’s path and be ready to shoot when it gets there. One technique few bowhunters practice is shooting at targets behind and just to one side of a tree. The obstruction can create a psychological block (which I don’t completely understand) that causes some archers to shoot toward the tree, others away from it. Test it to see how it affects your shooting – before the target behind that tree is your buck. The Moment Of Truth When taking your long-awaited shot, you must not only be in control; you must act correctly – do the right thing at the right time. Some hunters have a knack for making wise decisions in a split second. Most make mistakes when not given time for deliberation. We can all benefit from planning. Start by placing your stand precisely. Position it so you are concealed as you draw, so you’re not trying to shoot an animal that has spotted you. When using a treestand, try to select a place where you are concealed by a thick mast background, where there are big tree trunks or thick bushes that will conceal your draw. Place an animal or food scent behind the obstruction to pique the animal’s curiosity, so it may pause with its head hidden and vitals exposed. Position the stand for the most comfortable shooting position based on where the deer will likely be when you shoot. Usually, your platform should be on the opposite side of the tree from where the animal will likely approach. When hunting from a treestand or blind, step off distances in each direction and place subtle markers at yardages that coincide with your sight pins. Test the system by shooting practice arrows at the markers. When a deer gets near your stand, you can correlate his position with a marker and know the exact range. When in your blind or treestand, use your time waiting to plan your shot. Imagine all the possibilities of an animal coming by. Would you shoot if it paused between those big trees, or wait on the hope it would take a few more steps and offer a closer shot? If the animal was trotting, or offered only a rear shot, would you take it? Decide now. Being aware of what you can expect, and having a plan for each situation, gives you confidence. Confidence at this moment is what makes the difference between a hit and a miss. Practice drawing, aiming, even shooting in all directions from your stand. I always bring a couple practice arrows when I hunt. As soon as I get on my stand, I take a couple shots at the most likely places a deer will be. Since I’ve just made considerable commotion getting into my stand, the noise of shooting doesn’t have much chance of spooking deer. I’ve found out several times that the calculation on my first shot was wrong – once it was 10 minutes before a deer was standing there. If an animal you don’t care to shoot nears, wait till it’s at a good spot for a shot, and see if you can draw undetected. Aim at a spot near the animal (not directly at the animal, should the string slip) and analyze your performance. This will also tell you if you make too much movement or noise as you draw. When it comes time to actually take the shot, there are several things to consider. Is there brush in the way? Remember the trajectory of the arrow. The shot may appear to be clear, when in reality the arrow would strike a branch above your line of sight halfway to the target. Conversely, a bush just high enough to obscure the target may not actually be in the way – the arrow could rise above it in its arc and drop into the mark. Once you’ve checked for obstructions and decided to shoot, you must ignore them. If you’re worrying about hitting a twig, you probably will, because arrows tend to go where your attention is focused. Read the animal’s body language. Is it extremely nervous or fairly relaxed? A very nervous whitetail will almost surely jump the string, especially if the woods are still and the shot is long. In such cases, aim at the bottom of the vital zone. If the deer doesn’t jump, you’ll hit where you aim; if the deer does react in the typical crouch/leap manner, the arrow will probably strike higher in the zone as the deer coils – still a lethal shot. In essence, mind the details. Minor things, like a heavy coat or a stiff-brimmed hat, that interfere with your bowstring, or a stand that creaks as you prepare for the shot, can be a major blow to your odds of success. Finally, pick a spot. Bowhunters hear this phrase to the point of annoyance, but it’s still amazing how many violate this basic principle of bowhunting. Even experienced shooters can miss, only later to realize it was because they were aiming at the whole animal instead of that certain hair just behind the shoulder. This point is most critical for instinctive shooters, but applies also to sight shooters. The more precisely you aim, the more precisely you’ll shoot. There are other ways of improving bowhunting accuracy. Each archer has his own weak points that he must improve. Find yours and practice hard in a way that corrects them. The confidence you gain will make bowhunting more fun, and the skills you obtain will collect you more venison.
    1353 Posted by Chris Avena
  • In part 1 I discussed preparation and general archery practice techniques. Now we get into making practice real and succeeding in the moment of truth. by Mike Strandlund, Editor, Bowhunting World Match your practice sessions to actual hunting situations. A big game hunter doesn’t need to shoot quarter-size groups. What he needs to do is shoot groups the size of a vital zone under adverse shooting conditions. During practice sessions, vary your angles, distances, and shooting positions. Too many hunters shoot again and again from the same place in the same way. This gives them an exaggerated impression of their hunting accuracy. A whitetail’s not going to give you a couple of warm-up shots. You must be able to put that first arrow in there from odd angles and unknown distances. The best practice is to set up a course of targets at varying distances and uphill/downhill angles. If you plan to hunt exclusively from treestands, it makes no sense to practice on the same level as your target. Shoot down a steep bank, from the roof of your garage, or, better yet, from an actual treestand. Practice in the clothes you’ll wear hunting. Practice both quick shooting and holding full draw as long as you can. Again, practice as if your first arrow is your only arrow. As well as a realistic setting, you should use realistic targets. Most bowhunters benefit greatly from using lifelike targets of game animals. They help you pick and hit vital zones and practice visualization. An archery club range with a whole zoo of Styrofoam game animals is an ideal place for a bowhunter to practice. You might even set up your own course with treestands, ground blinds, and different types of animals. The next best thing to lifelike targets is a target without a bullseye. This might be a couple of hay bales, a plain straw butt, or my favorite – sand dunes. (I seldom miss.) The worst thing to use is a target with a bullseye. Turn your target around, or paint the front a solid color. Then pick your own imaginary bullseye, as you’ll have to do when shooting at game. While you practice, learn your effective range. Many bowhunters have a rude awakening when they shoot at life-size targets. Try it, to find your realistic shooting range, or else use this rule: If you can keep five of six arrows in a 9-inch circle (6-inch circle from a treestand), you’re within effective deer-shooting range. If not, wait for a closer shot. If you use a compound bow, make yardage calculation a science. For the archer with a bow sight, shooting accuracy is proportional to accuracy in judging range. You can practice range estimation constantly while walking through the woods. Pick out a tree in your path, guess the yardage, and step it off. When you get there, pick out another tree and do it again. Training really can enhance your ability to judge distance. Note that changes in vegetation thickness and elevation will change your depth perception. This method is even better, of course, if you bring your bow along and do some stump-shooting. Some bowhunters believe in electronic rangefinders. It is very difficult to take a reading on an animal that has entered bow range, but you can get the range of an object in the animal’s path and be ready to shoot when it gets there. One technique few bowhunters practice is shooting at targets behind and just to one side of a tree. The obstruction can create a psychological block (which I don’t completely understand) that causes some archers to shoot toward the tree, others away from it. Test it to see how it affects your shooting – before the target behind that tree is your buck. The Moment Of Truth When taking your long-awaited shot, you must not only be in control; you must act correctly – do the right thing at the right time. Some hunters have a knack for making wise decisions in a split second. Most make mistakes when not given time for deliberation. We can all benefit from planning. Start by placing your stand precisely. Position it so you are concealed as you draw, so you’re not trying to shoot an animal that has spotted you. When using a treestand, try to select a place where you are concealed by a thick mast background, where there are big tree trunks or thick bushes that will conceal your draw. Place an animal or food scent behind the obstruction to pique the animal’s curiosity, so it may pause with its head hidden and vitals exposed. Position the stand for the most comfortable shooting position based on where the deer will likely be when you shoot. Usually, your platform should be on the opposite side of the tree from where the animal will likely approach. When hunting from a treestand or blind, step off distances in each direction and place subtle markers at yardages that coincide with your sight pins. Test the system by shooting practice arrows at the markers. When a deer gets near your stand, you can correlate his position with a marker and know the exact range. When in your blind or treestand, use your time waiting to plan your shot. Imagine all the possibilities of an animal coming by. Would you shoot if it paused between those big trees, or wait on the hope it would take a few more steps and offer a closer shot? If the animal was trotting, or offered only a rear shot, would you take it? Decide now. Being aware of what you can expect, and having a plan for each situation, gives you confidence. Confidence at this moment is what makes the difference between a hit and a miss. Practice drawing, aiming, even shooting in all directions from your stand. I always bring a couple practice arrows when I hunt. As soon as I get on my stand, I take a couple shots at the most likely places a deer will be. Since I’ve just made considerable commotion getting into my stand, the noise of shooting doesn’t have much chance of spooking deer. I’ve found out several times that the calculation on my first shot was wrong – once it was 10 minutes before a deer was standing there. If an animal you don’t care to shoot nears, wait till it’s at a good spot for a shot, and see if you can draw undetected. Aim at a spot near the animal (not directly at the animal, should the string slip) and analyze your performance. This will also tell you if you make too much movement or noise as you draw. When it comes time to actually take the shot, there are several things to consider. Is there brush in the way? Remember the trajectory of the arrow. The shot may appear to be clear, when in reality the arrow would strike a branch above your line of sight halfway to the target. Conversely, a bush just high enough to obscure the target may not actually be in the way – the arrow could rise above it in its arc and drop into the mark. Once you’ve checked for obstructions and decided to shoot, you must ignore them. If you’re worrying about hitting a twig, you probably will, because arrows tend to go where your attention is focused. Read the animal’s body language. Is it extremely nervous or fairly relaxed? A very nervous whitetail will almost surely jump the string, especially if the woods are still and the shot is long. In such cases, aim at the bottom of the vital zone. If the deer doesn’t jump, you’ll hit where you aim; if the deer does react in the typical crouch/leap manner, the arrow will probably strike higher in the zone as the deer coils – still a lethal shot. In essence, mind the details. Minor things, like a heavy coat or a stiff-brimmed hat, that interfere with your bowstring, or a stand that creaks as you prepare for the shot, can be a major blow to your odds of success. Finally, pick a spot. Bowhunters hear this phrase to the point of annoyance, but it’s still amazing how many violate this basic principle of bowhunting. Even experienced shooters can miss, only later to realize it was because they were aiming at the whole animal instead of that certain hair just behind the shoulder. This point is most critical for instinctive shooters, but applies also to sight shooters. The more precisely you aim, the more precisely you’ll shoot. There are other ways of improving bowhunting accuracy. Each archer has his own weak points that he must improve. Find yours and practice hard in a way that corrects them. The confidence you gain will make bowhunting more fun, and the skills you obtain will collect you more venison.
    May 22, 2011 1353
  • 16 May 2011
    Try something different—and fun!—during the summer off-season. by Clint Stone   At its heart, bowfishing is fun. Modern bowhunters have turned venal as day traders, if the fascination with slams and draconian quality deer management schemes is any indication. So it has become necessary while selling the idea of bowfishing to appeal to readers’ logic or, perhaps, to some Calvinistic-like principle. There’s the obligatory bit about keeping the shooting eye sharp and string-tugging muscles toned. The author would also be remiss for failing to reveal that carp (the most popular bowfishing target) are a non-native, invasive species, directly competing with desirable game fish, rendering bowfishing a guilt-free enterprise. All of this is true, but at its heart bowfishing is simply fun. Hoot and holler, smoke a cigar (only to keep mosquitoes away, of course), share the adventure with friends, or, better yet, bring the entire family, tikes included. Hardy Asian carp manage to live in waters uninhabitable by more discriminating fish, meaning they’re seldom difficult to locate. I’ve shot them from desert lakes to mountain trout streams, though there’s more to bowfishing than carp. Depending on location, targets of opportunity might include native non-game buffalofish, suckers, gars, or ocean sheephead and stingrays. With more imagination bowfishing can assume big-game dimensions, trophies such as paddlefish (Midwest), alligator gar (South), shark (Louisiana), or alligators (Florida), which all provide unique challenges and bragging-size prizes. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Bowfishing can literally turn into year-round sport, but the best time for easy, nonstop shooting is normally during the spring carp spawn. From April through June, depending on latitude and altitude, carp invade the shallows of river riffles and side channels, lake and reservoir bays, even municipal pond storm drains and feeds. They splash and wallow in shin-deep water, sometimes flopping onto shore during their heedless frolicking. Carp are easily approached while spawning and often present “flock-shooting” ease. Summer bowfishermen are rewarded by patiently stalking or poling shallows or shelves for feeders. Consult area conservation officers for hotspot tips and rules of engagement in your state. At its most basic, bowfishing involves donning waders or old duds and jumping right in—an approach especially welcomed during hot summer months. Shooting from a boat is fun and sometimes more profitable, but not absolutely necessary in most waters. You’ll need some basic gear, first a bow that you won’t mind getting wet and muddy. The inherent resistance of water and the heavy scales and bone of “trash fish” calls for heavy fish arrows, normally something weighing 1,500-plus grains. This, in turn, calls for an arrow rest designed to accommodate that extra weight, plus barbed points to keep fish from sliding off an arrow after a hit. The arrow is attached to stout cord, stored and paid out smoothly from a bowfishing reel, that also allows retrieving your arrow (and fish) after the shot. Bowfishing accessories come in various styles, price points, and function. Any old bow serves as a bowfishing platform, but specially designed bowfishing bows often prove more viable. These are compounds with non-corrosive hardware and specialty, smooth-drawing cams, or metal-handled recurves with necessary accessory taps. Compound designs allow more deliberate aiming, and more power for shooting into deeper water or at the biggest targets (most notably from boats). Recurve designs are best for shooting in shallow water or where a quick-draw is needed for moving targets, like when wading for spawning carp. While bowfishing arrows are pretty standard—heavy solid fiberglass, fancy models with carbon or aluminum sheaths—points come in more variety. This is a matter of price verses ease of use and durability. For casual shooting, especially in soft-mud bottoms, budget-priced points work fine, but removing fish from arrows is normally more time-consuming. More expensive tips are typically more durable—important when shooting near rock or stumps—and include designs that make removing fish fast and trouble-free. All fish arrows should be equipped with an AMS Safety Slide that keeps the retrieval line safe from tangles and potentially dangerous bounce-backs. Reels are the biggest variable in price and function. The inexpensive drum reel stores hand-wound line on an open, large-diameter spool, which attaches to the bow via stabilizer mount or tape-on feet. They get the job done in shallow waters where ranges are intimate, but involve slower retrieval and added bulk or weight. Mid-priced, stabilizer-mounted, close-faced spinning reels offer extra-fast arrow retrieval after misses, drags to help fight bigger fish, and compactness. Just remember to push the “cast” button before every shot or risk losing arrows to break-offs or, worse, a dangerous arrow bounce-back. Finally, the AMS Retriever Reel includes trigger-activated rollers that stack line neatly inside a side-mounted bottle during retrieval, offering zero friction during the shot with no release buttons to push before shooting. The last bits of useful advice is to invest in quality polarized sunglasses, which help penetrate surface glare and allow you to better spot submerged targets. Remember to aim low when targets fin into view. Aiming low assures compensation for image refraction though the water. (Image refraction is akin to light bending as it passes through a prism.) Objects always appear higher than they actually are, depending on water depth and shot angle. There’s no set formula to offer. Experience is the best teacher, though a couple companies have recently introduced special bowfishing sights to tackle this phenomenon. While big-game bowhunting proves ultimately rewarding, the process itself often involves tedium or drudgery. Not so with bowfishing. From the moment you wade into cooling waters to the moment when you finally connect on your first fish, bowfishing is all about start-to-finish enjoyment.
    1465 Posted by Chris Avena
  • Try something different—and fun!—during the summer off-season. by Clint Stone   At its heart, bowfishing is fun. Modern bowhunters have turned venal as day traders, if the fascination with slams and draconian quality deer management schemes is any indication. So it has become necessary while selling the idea of bowfishing to appeal to readers’ logic or, perhaps, to some Calvinistic-like principle. There’s the obligatory bit about keeping the shooting eye sharp and string-tugging muscles toned. The author would also be remiss for failing to reveal that carp (the most popular bowfishing target) are a non-native, invasive species, directly competing with desirable game fish, rendering bowfishing a guilt-free enterprise. All of this is true, but at its heart bowfishing is simply fun. Hoot and holler, smoke a cigar (only to keep mosquitoes away, of course), share the adventure with friends, or, better yet, bring the entire family, tikes included. Hardy Asian carp manage to live in waters uninhabitable by more discriminating fish, meaning they’re seldom difficult to locate. I’ve shot them from desert lakes to mountain trout streams, though there’s more to bowfishing than carp. Depending on location, targets of opportunity might include native non-game buffalofish, suckers, gars, or ocean sheephead and stingrays. With more imagination bowfishing can assume big-game dimensions, trophies such as paddlefish (Midwest), alligator gar (South), shark (Louisiana), or alligators (Florida), which all provide unique challenges and bragging-size prizes. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Bowfishing can literally turn into year-round sport, but the best time for easy, nonstop shooting is normally during the spring carp spawn. From April through June, depending on latitude and altitude, carp invade the shallows of river riffles and side channels, lake and reservoir bays, even municipal pond storm drains and feeds. They splash and wallow in shin-deep water, sometimes flopping onto shore during their heedless frolicking. Carp are easily approached while spawning and often present “flock-shooting” ease. Summer bowfishermen are rewarded by patiently stalking or poling shallows or shelves for feeders. Consult area conservation officers for hotspot tips and rules of engagement in your state. At its most basic, bowfishing involves donning waders or old duds and jumping right in—an approach especially welcomed during hot summer months. Shooting from a boat is fun and sometimes more profitable, but not absolutely necessary in most waters. You’ll need some basic gear, first a bow that you won’t mind getting wet and muddy. The inherent resistance of water and the heavy scales and bone of “trash fish” calls for heavy fish arrows, normally something weighing 1,500-plus grains. This, in turn, calls for an arrow rest designed to accommodate that extra weight, plus barbed points to keep fish from sliding off an arrow after a hit. The arrow is attached to stout cord, stored and paid out smoothly from a bowfishing reel, that also allows retrieving your arrow (and fish) after the shot. Bowfishing accessories come in various styles, price points, and function. Any old bow serves as a bowfishing platform, but specially designed bowfishing bows often prove more viable. These are compounds with non-corrosive hardware and specialty, smooth-drawing cams, or metal-handled recurves with necessary accessory taps. Compound designs allow more deliberate aiming, and more power for shooting into deeper water or at the biggest targets (most notably from boats). Recurve designs are best for shooting in shallow water or where a quick-draw is needed for moving targets, like when wading for spawning carp. While bowfishing arrows are pretty standard—heavy solid fiberglass, fancy models with carbon or aluminum sheaths—points come in more variety. This is a matter of price verses ease of use and durability. For casual shooting, especially in soft-mud bottoms, budget-priced points work fine, but removing fish from arrows is normally more time-consuming. More expensive tips are typically more durable—important when shooting near rock or stumps—and include designs that make removing fish fast and trouble-free. All fish arrows should be equipped with an AMS Safety Slide that keeps the retrieval line safe from tangles and potentially dangerous bounce-backs. Reels are the biggest variable in price and function. The inexpensive drum reel stores hand-wound line on an open, large-diameter spool, which attaches to the bow via stabilizer mount or tape-on feet. They get the job done in shallow waters where ranges are intimate, but involve slower retrieval and added bulk or weight. Mid-priced, stabilizer-mounted, close-faced spinning reels offer extra-fast arrow retrieval after misses, drags to help fight bigger fish, and compactness. Just remember to push the “cast” button before every shot or risk losing arrows to break-offs or, worse, a dangerous arrow bounce-back. Finally, the AMS Retriever Reel includes trigger-activated rollers that stack line neatly inside a side-mounted bottle during retrieval, offering zero friction during the shot with no release buttons to push before shooting. The last bits of useful advice is to invest in quality polarized sunglasses, which help penetrate surface glare and allow you to better spot submerged targets. Remember to aim low when targets fin into view. Aiming low assures compensation for image refraction though the water. (Image refraction is akin to light bending as it passes through a prism.) Objects always appear higher than they actually are, depending on water depth and shot angle. There’s no set formula to offer. Experience is the best teacher, though a couple companies have recently introduced special bowfishing sights to tackle this phenomenon. While big-game bowhunting proves ultimately rewarding, the process itself often involves tedium or drudgery. Not so with bowfishing. From the moment you wade into cooling waters to the moment when you finally connect on your first fish, bowfishing is all about start-to-finish enjoyment.
    May 16, 2011 1465
test