By BDN staff reports  SANFORD, Maine — A 44-year-old Sanford man was shot while hunting Monday near Hollis, the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife has reported. According to MDIF&W, Mark Lemieux, 44, of Sanford suffered injuries to his legs, chest, head and face. The gunshot was fired by his uncle, Gerard Lemieux, 69, of Gorham, according to Maine Warden Service Lt. Adam Gormely. Mark Lemieux was treated and then released from Goodall Hospital in Sanford. The incident is under investigation by the Maine Warden Service. Monday is the first day of spring wild turkey hunting season for residents and nonresidents with a license and a permit. The season runs through June 4 in Wildlife Management Districts 7, 10 through 26, and 28, a large portion of the state excluding northern Aroostook County.

Kansas Gov. Sam Brownback is planning a new event in November to open the state's pheasant season and promote hunting.   TOPEKA, Kan. (AP) — Kansas Gov. Sam Brownback is planning a new event in November to open the state's pheasant season and promote hunting. The Ringneck Classic will bring business and community leaders from across the state to the northwestern town of Oakley for a dinner and a weekend of hunting. It's scheduled for Nov. 18-20. Brownback says he wants to market Kansas as the Midwest's premier destination for pheasant hunting. Wildlife and Parks Secretary Robin Jennison says the Ringneck Classic — named for a type of pheasant — will give the state a chance to show off tourism opportunities in northwest Kansas

Simply throwing some seed down does not make a food plot. If you want action, you must take action and do it right. by Steve Bartylla It was amazing. I could glass the property line squatter’s stand. He was a mere 105 yards away from mine. Sitting along the edge on the hayfield, he was trying to intercept the deer coming off of my small lease. What I found amazing wasn’t that he’d put his stand in a tree that the property fence ran through or that it was situated to shoot into my lease. Unfortunately, such acts happen far too frequently. What was amazing was how effective my food plot strategy had been in foiling his attempts. During each sit on my half-acre food plot, I saw many deer, with the majority offering shot opportunities. Heck, from that stand I eventually arrowed the biggest buck in the area. However, a mere 105 yards away, the squatter saw next to nothing. That’s precisely how powerful food plots can be. Unfortunately, the majority aren’t effective. They are often slapped into the easiest locations, with little thought invested into how they can maximize hunting opportunities. To get killer results from food plots, one must do more than the minimum. Feed Plots, Kill Plots, And Size That starts with planning. Of course, sunlight, soil types, soils conditions, accessibility, and a host of factors need to be considered. For now, let’s focus on size, shape, and location assuming that the conditions are also suitable for planting. Before we can begin, we must first differentiate between feed or kill plots. As the names imply, they serve distinctly different purposes. Feed plots are designed to both help keep deer on the property and address their nutritional needs. Kill plots are for hunting.       Because they are designed to be a primary food source, feed plots must be larger in size to sustain prolonged feeding. Furthermore, one must account for the competition factor. Most prime 40-acre-plus properties have more than one doe family group spending some time on the land. Each family group can consist of multiple generations of does and young that can be traced back to the matriarch doe. These family groups struggle for dominance much like bucks do during the rut. If the feed plot is too small, family groups and individual bucks are often driven off by the dominant family group and buck in the area. To feed and hold the maximum number of resident deer on the property, one can approach feed plots in two ways. The least cost-effective method is to make feed plots large enough for the deer to share nicely. That size varies based on other available food choices and deer density, but requires comparatively more acreage. The other option is breaking the feed plot into several plots, with each containing the same plantings. For example, three completely separate feed plots, each containing 1 acre of alfalfa and 4 acres of double-planted grain can support a minimum of three mature bucks and up to six family groups. One 15-acre plot will most likely lose one or more family groups and, once the bachelor groups break up, risks trimming the mature bucks to 1. The younger, subordinate bucks will also compete and disperse less with the illusion of reduced competition that the multiple-plot option provides. Conversely, kill plots should be small. After all, as the name implies, their purpose is for killing deer. Since bow range is limited, smaller, horseshoe, and “L” plots maximize shot opportunities. Along with that, within reason, the smaller the food plot, the safer the deer feel. All else being equal, a narrow half-acre food plot, completely surrounded by cover, will receive more daylight feeding activity than a square 5-acre plot. Furthermore, orienting the plot so the outside apex of the horseshoe or L works with the prevailing fall wind direction is important in providing the maximum opportunities. With that, one can place stands on the outside and inside edge of the apex.     Because of the shape, size, and placement of the kill plot, the author realized great daylight buck activity, whereas just 105 yards away the line squatter saw nearly nothing.   Additionally, the shape naturally funnels deer to your stand. From the apex, deer can see the entire food plot. Because of that, they gravitate to that area. Finally, the kill plot should be no more than 30 yards wide. That further increases the odds of any deer entering the plot being within bow range. Though the shape and orientation isn’t important for feed plots, you can see why addressing both is extremely beneficial on kill plots. Minimizing near misses should be a priority, and these two factors do just that. Food Plot Location At first thought, the location of the feed plots may not seem overly important. After all, since hunting them isn’t a primary concern, who cares if the feeding occurs after dark? In fact, it works to our advantage if we can keep deer in the woods until after dark. Still, location means everything for both the feed and kill plot. Ideally, they work in concert with each other. We want the bucks to stage in our small kill plots before venturing out to the feed plots after dark. Maximizing location begins by determining where the bedding activity occurs. Next, one can plot the feed plot locations. Inside corners of existing fields and remote areas of open grass lands are both great choices. Deer tend to feel safe in these locations, but the relative openness still promotes twilight and nighttime activity. With the bedding and feed plot locations identified, determine the most likely path deer will take between the two. Backing off around 100 to 200 yards from the feed plot is where our kill plot should be located. Determining the precise location is a balance between conditions suitable to grow the planting and the ability to keep disturbances to a minimum when hunting, accessing, and departing the plot. Luckily, two of best planting choices for the kill plots are clovers and brassicas. Both are relatively easy to grow and don’t require ideal conditions.   Pairing grains and greens helps feed plots provide nutrition throughout the entire year.   Of course, this type of placement will require some clearing work. A decent dozer operator can typically knock out three to five of these kill plots in a day, as well as complement each with a small waterhole. They can even pile the debris to form a barrier in front of the stand sites so the deer enter where you want them to. The costs generally fall under $500 for a day’s work. For those on a tighter budget, all one really needs is a chainsaw and an ATV equipped with a sturdy disc. Remember, we’re not cash cropping here. So, if the plots contain some stumps, it’s not an issue. Either way, carefully planning the location of the feed and kill plots can make the difference between arrowing the buck of your dreams and seeing virtually nothing. By then shaping and orienting the kill plot correctly, one stacks the odds for producing killer results. Devil In The Details The details often separate a thriving food plot from crop failure. Here are a few items that many overlook, but can prove to be real difference-makers. Match the planting to soil types and conditions: For example, because of a relatively shallow fibrous root system, clovers will do very well in comparatively moist areas and heavy soil types. However, they do poorly in sandy, comparatively dry areas. Because of a deeper tap root system, alfalfas are better suited for lighter soils and can tolerate significantly lower moisture content. Match the planting to amount of sunlight: Chicory, clovers, and even many brassicas can do well in as little as three hours of direct sunlight a day. Most grain crops, such as corn and soybeans, do much better with six or more hours. For the best possible food plot, matching the planting to the specifics of the location is critical. Test soil pH and nutrient levels: Soils tests are cheap and easy. Simply collect tablespoon-size scoops of topsoil from evenly dispersed areas of your food plot until you have filled about half a sandwich baggie. Most seed dealers or the county agricultural office can send it away for testing. A few weeks later, you will get a report that details the exact fertilizer and lime requirements for your particular planting.   Firm seedbeds are critical for broadcast seeds to realize high germination rates.   Use lime wisely: Speaking of lime, not all limes are created equal. Limes range from fine to coarse grain. Pelletized lime is an extremely fine lime that has been bonded to form pellets. It breaks down in the soils very fast. The effects can begin within weeks. Barn lime is the opposite extreme. It’s so course that as much as 50 percent may never break down into usable form and can take many months to make a significant difference. Frankly, it shouldn’t be used for food plots. The field lime that is sold most often to farmers strikes a balance between the two extremes. In either case, one should realize that lime is not a permanent fix. The finer the grain, the quicker the impact, but also the faster it leeches from the soil. With pelletized lime, one often must reapply every year. Most field limes are commonly good for two or more years. Prepare a proper seed bed: This is well worth the effort. Even the “no tills” that are available will do significantly better in properly prepared soils. After disking, the soil should be cultipacked to create an even and firm bed. This is mission critical for small seeds not meant to be drilled. If the bed isn’t firm, a high percentage of seed is often covered too deep to ever break the surface. For seeds that are drilled, all that is left is praying for rain, but broadcasted seeds should be cultipacked one last time. Doing so sinks the seeds into the soil and promotes a higher germination rate. Maintain your planting: Weed competition is often the greatest challenge. Most all seed blends these days can be sprayed with herbicides. The trick is selecting the right one for the specific planting. The seed dealers can point you in the right direction. Also, many greens can be mowed to knock back the weeds. Some plantings, such as clovers and alfalfas, need to be mowed to keep them in a highly digestible and nutritious state. When they reach 6 to 12 inches in height, knocking them down to approximately 4 inches does the trick. One can never control rainfall. However, following the steps above will help give your food plot its best chance to thrive

by Bob McNally If you want to shoot a big buck, you’ve got to play it cool and keep from alerting him that you’re hanging around. These six tips will help you fly under his radar.   1. Scout from long range, using high-quality binoculars and spotting scopes. This helps avoid contaminating prime buck areas with human scent. 2. Use long-range rifles with top-quality scopes, and set stands to allow for shots of 200 yards and longer. The farther from bucks and their home areas you can get, the more likely it is that you can capitalize on a mistake they might make. 3. Only hunt your best spots during optimum hunting conditions — perfect wind, cold weather, when the rut is rocking, etc. 4. Get on the trail-camera bandwagon. They allow hunters to "watch" numerous locations without setting foot on the property. 5. Move stands frequently to keep human contamination low in prime buck locations. 6. Hunt the periphery first. Especially in new hunting areas, learn from long range where to move in on a buck or choice location.

Researchers have found the state's black bear population continues to expand from its usual forest habitat into farmland in northwestern Minnesota, raising the chances of dangerous run-ins with humans.   HOLT, Minn. (AP) — Researchers have found the state's black bear population continues to expand from its usual forest habitat into farmland in northwestern Minnesota, raising the chances of dangerous run-ins with humans. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources has been in northwestern Minnesota studying the bear migration, which began in the mid-1990s when natural foods, like acorns and berries, in the traditional bear range became scarce. That becomes a nuisance for farmers, and DNR experts warn it could mean more bears will get shot. "If those foods fail then they have corn and sunflowers as a backup. That's here every year,'' DNR bear biologist Dave Garshelis told Minnesota Public Radio News. "The risk for the corn and sunflowers of course is that they're going to get shot in a farmer's field.'' The DNR is trying to learn more through a research project in which it studies bears in their natural habitats. Researchers are studying where the bears travel, what they eat and how healthy they are. The state is estimated to have 20,000 bears, but it is not clear how many are in northwestern Minnesota farmland. The state's bear population is stable, except for the growing group in the northwestern region. There is no limit on how many bears hunters in the state's northwestern region can shoot, but the DNR could soon impose limits to protect the bear population.

Use these eight calling techniques to become a turkey assassin. Michael Waddell     It takes different calls to consistently close the coffin on longbeards. Have several calls and know how to use them.     Mastering a mouth call is critical for those last few crucial moments when you can't have any movement and your hands need to be free.     The author has found success by creating the illusion of a moving bird by using directional calling techniques.         While I dedicate a lot of time to chasing whitetails and other antlered monsters, spring turkey hunting is still one of my favorite pursuits. It's a great time to be in the woods, you don't have to freeze your butt off, and best of all, I can do most of it right near my home in Georgia. I grew up hunting ol' Booger Bottom right behind where my daddy still lives today, and I look forward to taking time off from my hectic traveling schedule every year to return there and hunt. But whether I'm hunting familiar woods I've hunted all my life or am chasing Rios or Merriam's in front of a camera in some place I've never even seen before, I use the same key skills to be successful. The most important skill I rely on is my ability to call. Calling is not only one of the things that makes turkey hunting so much fun, it's also the most important skill every turkey hunter needs to have in order to bring that big gobbler into gun range so he can ride home in the back of your truck. Here are a few tricks I've learned over the years. Maybe some of them will help you. 1 Mix It UpA lot of turkey hunters, especially beginners, learn to use one call pretty good, but never become proficient on other types. Or they may be able to use other calls, but they rely on that one they like almost exclusively. Bad mistake. Every call has its own pitch and sound and not every one is going to appeal to a particular longbeard. While one turkey may gobble his head off at your box call on Friday, that same turkey or even a different one, may ignore it on Saturday. Different calls may fire a tom up at different times. That's why it's important to learn to use several different calls and be able to run each of them as proficiently as the next. If turkeys aren't responding to your box call, switch to a mouth call or a slate. Even a tube call can work wonders in areas where gobblers have heard everything else thrown at them. If you prefer a box or a pot-and-peg type call, and are really good at that type, then buy several different ones and learn to use each of them as well as the other. Then you can keep inside your comfort zone, though I still recommend becoming versatile with different types of calls. 2 Master the Mouth CallMy favorite call to use, without a doubt, is a mouth call. To me, it's one of the most versatile. With a mouth call or diaphragm, you can make virtually every sound a turkey makes, varying rhythm, pitch and volume all with how you hold your mouth and huff air across the reeds. Best of all, it keeps your hands free so you can keep them on your shotgun when a gobbler is in close, but you need to work him just a little closer with a few light yelps or purrs. 3 Cadence is Key As varied as a hen's yelping and many other calls are, they nearly all follow a basic rhythm. In fact, I would say, when calling to a turkey at a distance at least, it is more important to have the right cadence than to even have the right sound. Listening to real turkeys in the woods or watching videos and TV shows of turkey hunts is one of the best ways to observe this cadence and learn to mimic it perfectly. Yelping, the hen's most basic call and the most important one for you to master, is delivered with evenly paced beats. Whether it is a casual yelp or one that is more excited and delivered with a little more speed, those yelps will always be spaced evenly apart. Cutting, which is really just a very excited, short burst of one-note clucks, will be more unevenly delivered, but still have a certain general rhythm to them. 4 Add Motion I bet you're scratching your head right now. "Add motion, he must be talking about decoys now," you're probably thinking. That can be helpful, too, but what I'm talking about here is adding some motion to your calling. How many guys, walk in the woods, plop down at the first gobble they make and just start calling from that same spot? If a gobbler is hopped up and ready for action, that will be enough. But when he is feeling more cautious and would rather the hen show herself, you're going to have to change positions. If a longbeard is far enough away, or even if the gobbles have gone silent on a particular morning, I will stand up and walk around, cutting and yelping and turning my head and body in different directions to make it sound like the hen is coming toward the tom and then moving away from him. I've walked 20 or 30 yards toward a gobbling tom that kept strutting back and forth out of sight to make him think I was a real hen. In these situations, try walking toward the turkey and then away while calling. Then shut up and move back to where you were closest to him and set up. The longbeard might think the hen is leaving him and finally show himself. When calling on the move like that, it is not only important that you do it when you are far enough away from a tom that he can't see you, but also that there is no chance of other hunters being around for obvious safety reasons. 5 Directional Calling Just like moving around while calling, it is important to be able to cast your sound in different directions as a gobbler approaches. With a mouth call, I cup a hand to the side of my mouth and use it to throw the sound of my calls in a particular direction. With a slate call, cup your hand beneath the sound board of the call and do basically the same thing. With a box, turn the sound chamber in a different direction, though I've found it's easier to throw a call's sound with a mouth call--one of the reason I prefer them. 6 Back It OffWhen trying to get a tom to offer up that first gobble or calling to one far off in the distance, it's perfectly fine to call as loud as you can. It's not okay to do that as that longbeard closes to within a 100 yards or less. Be sure to tone down the volume as the turkey gets closer. I've hunted with guys who had a gobbler hung-up 50 or 60 yards in front of them and then suddenly started calling as loud as if they turkey was in the next county. Loud calling will merely blow the turkey out, spooking him and sending him the other direction.  7 Clucks and PurrsThe yelp is the turkey's primary call, while cutting really works to get a longbeard fired up, but sometimes you need to go easy. That's where a single-note cluck and soft purrs can really come into play, particularly when working birds in close. Purrs are made when turkeys are content and can make a nervous tom relax as he works within range. 8 Keep It CleanWhen using friction calls such as a pot-and-peg or a box call, be careful not to touch the calling surfaces with your fingers. You also want to keep the surfaces free of dirt and free of moisture (unless the call is made to run wet.) Over time, oils in your skin can clog the pores in wood and slate, while it can make a striker slip and squeak on glass or metal. Likewise, don't touch the end of your strikers or stick them down in the dirt. Proper care will keep friction calls working a lifetime--at least yours.

By Aaron_DeckerCreated 03/17/2011 Top Tips For Opening Day Toms 1. Roost A TomYour season really begins the afternoon before opening day. Get there the last hour of daylight and listen for the tell-tale flapping wings of birds flying up to roost and longbeards gobbling from the limb. If you hear one that sounds like it is in a tree, ease as close to him as you dare without spooking him. Ideally you want to pinpoint exactly what tree he is in so you can set up close to him in the morning. Try to roost at least three birds so you have multiple back-up plans incase your choosen bird fails to pan out. Many factors can come into play from a blown set up to simply an unresponsive bird. It is best to not put all your eggs in one basket. 2. Be FirstWhether you hunt public land or a shared lease, nothing is worse than planning the season's first hunt only to arrive at your spot and find somebody else there. It's crucial that you get there first. Leave home in plenty of time. Have your gear organized and ready to go and don't be afraid of spending extra time sitting in the dark--its worth it to make the plan come together. 3. Call With CautionNever call excessively to a gobbler on the roost. Call softly once or twice to a bird gobbling from the limb in order to make him think a hen is there. If he responds to your call, shut up. He knows you're there, and barring getting intercepted by a real hen, he will likely come your way when he hits the ground. Once he is on the ground, give him a more energetic series of calls to get him cranked up and marching your way. Once he starts coming, revert back to the earlier technique of keeping your calls to a minimum. The key is to be flexible. If hens suddenly light up, start calling aggressively again to get the longbeard fired up and coming your way in a hurry. Remember, once he's with the other hens, your morning just got a lot tougher.

State wildlife officials are planning a series of clinics for beginning deer hunters late this summer.   BABCOCK, Wis. (AP) — State wildlife officials are planning a series of clinics for beginning deer hunters late this summer. The Department of Natural Resources will hold the one-day workshops at the Sandhill Wildlife Area near Babcock. The classes will include information on deer biology and management, scouting and firearm safety as well as hunting rules and ethics. The agency will offer a youth workshop for children ages 12 to 15 on Aug. 4, 6 and 8. A clinic for first-time hunters over age 16 will take place on Sept. 24. Graduates will be invited to take part in a special hunt in the wildlife area on Nov. 5-6. Applications are available on the DNR's website and at DNR service centers.

Are you a city slicker that could ROCK IT in the WILD?! Are you SUPER OUTGOING and up for a CHALLENGE?Have you always had a LOVE for the OUTDOORS (Camping, rock climbing, gardening, fishing etc)? A prominent cable network may be lookin' for you! We are currently seeking a side kick to pair up with a famous hunter in TEXAS! Requirements:MUST have an outgoing personality- the funnier the betterUnder 5'10 heightLove for the outdoors A degree in wildlife/forestry is a definite plus!Must be willing to relocate to TX for shooting To be considered email CastReality@Gmail.com a recent photo, contact information (cell, email), and why you think you would ROCK it in the wild!

Air Force officials at Shaw Air Force Base in South Carolina are allowing turkey hunters to go for the gobblers on the Poinsett electronic combat range this spring. SHAW AIR FORCE BASE, S.C. (AP) — Air Force officials at Shaw Air Force Base in South Carolina are allowing turkey hunters to go for the gobblers on the Poinsett electronic combat range this spring. Air Force officials say hunting will be allowed on Saturdays and Sundays when there are no mission conflicts from April 1 through May 1. Hunting will not be allowed on Easter Sunday, April 24. All hunters must have valid South Carolina hunting licenses and pay a $15 fee for each hunt. The hunts last from 30 minutes before sunrise until four hours after sunrise. Hunters will be transported to an assigned drop-off site after a mandatory safety briefing. To reserve a spot on a first-come basis, call 803-494-3239 by 8:30 a.m. on Tuesday before each hunt.